Stories · Chapter 1
Seven O’Clock Swell
A story with Quinn, 26: Surf instructor who's never had a bad day
The beach at dusk smells like salt and woodsmoke. Someone has lit a bonfire near the dunes, someone else has a guitar, and you are standing a little apart from it all with your shoes in your hand, wondering why you agreed to come.
“First bonfire?”
The voice comes from your left. Quinn is sitting on an upturned surfboard, sun-bleached hair falling in their eyes, a hoodie with the sleeves pushed up and sand on everything. They are grinning at you like you’re the best thing that has happened all day.
“That obvious?”
“You’re holding your shoes like they might escape.” They scoot over on the board and pat the space beside them. “Sit. The board doesn’t bite. Unless you fall off it, then it kind of does.”
You sit. The fire crackles. Quinn hands you a toasted marshmallow on a stick, perfectly golden, as if they had made it in advance on the off chance you’d show up.
They teach surfing, it turns out, at the little shack by the pier with the hand-painted sign. They live by the tide chart taped to their fridge. They believe, with total sincerity, that there is no bad day salt water can’t fix.
“That can’t be true,” you say.
“Name a bad day.”
You tell them about yours. Not all of it, but enough. The deadline. The email you shouldn’t have sent. The feeling of running all week and still being behind.
Quinn listens with their elbows on their knees, nodding slowly. When you finish, they don’t try to fix it. They just look out at the dark water, where the waves are rolling in long and steady, white lines in the moonlight.
“Okay,” they say. “That’s a real one. I’ll give you that.” Then they turn to you with that grin again. “Swell’s perfect tomorrow. You, me, a board, seven a.m. You’ll fall off a lot. That’s the fun part.”
“I’ve never surfed.”
“Perfect. You have nothing to unlearn.”
“I’ll look ridiculous.”
“Everybody looks ridiculous. I fell off in front of a pelican this morning. He judged me. I lived.” They bump your knee with theirs. “Look, here’s the secret. You’re not trying to beat the ocean. You’re just trying to say hi to it. Most days it says hi back.”
Someone at the fire starts a song everyone seems to know. Quinn hums along, off-key and unbothered. Their hand rests on the board between you, close enough that your little finger brushes theirs when you shift. They don’t move away. Neither do you.
As the fire burns low, people drift home in twos and threes. Quinn walks you up the path to the road, carrying their board under one arm and your shoes in the other hand, because somewhere along the way you gave them up.
At the top of the dunes, they stop and point at the shack by the pier, dark now except for a single porch light.
“There’s a spare wetsuit hanging inside the door,” they say. “Should fit you. I’ll have coffee in a thermos and the good wax.” They hand back your shoes, then hesitate, a little less breezy than before. “And if you show up, I’ll show you my secret spot after. Nobody else knows about it. Not even the pelican.”



